Traverse trail through the Corsican mountains with distant sea views
Hiking

Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti

If the GR20 is the king of Corsican trails, the Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti are its more accessible princes. These Corsican traverse routes let you discover the island's wild interior without the technical demands of the GR20. From sea to sea or from sea to mountain, these trails -- waymarked in orange -- offer an authentic immersion in the most unspoilt landscapes and villages of the Isle of Beauty, with the comfort of trail lodges for overnight stops.

The Mare a Mare trails: crossing Corsica from east to west

The Mare a Mare concept ("sea to sea" in Corsican) is simple and appealing: link the island's two coastlines by crossing the mountainous interior. Three variants exist, each at a different latitude, offering distinct scenery and atmospheres.

Mare a Mare South: the most popular crossing

The Mare a Mare South links Porto-Vecchio (east coast) to Ajaccio (west coast) in 5 stages over roughly 70 km. It is the shortest and most accessible of the three routes, ideal for a first taste of multi-day hiking in Corsica.

The trail passes through the Ospedale forest, with its maritime pines and erosion-sculpted granite boulders, before dropping down to the village of Levie, rich in prehistoric sites. It then crosses the Coscione plateau -- vast highland pastures dotted with pozzines -- before descending towards the Gulf of Ajaccio through fragrant maquis.

  • Duration: 5 days
  • Distance: approx. 70 km
  • Elevation: 400 to 700 m ascent per stage
  • Difficulty: easy to moderate
  • Highlights: Ospedale forest, Coscione plateau, villages of Alta Rocca

Mare a Mare Centre: into the heart of the island

The Mare a Mare Centre links Ghisonaccia (east coast) to Porticcio (west coast) in 7 stages over roughly 90 km. Longer than the southern variant, it cuts through the core of Corsica, passing through perched villages and deep valleys.

The route follows the Fiumorbo valley, climbs to the villages of Cozzano and Guitera-les-Bains (where you can enjoy sulphurous hot springs), then crosses the Col de Saint-Georges before descending towards the west coast. Landscapes alternate between chestnut forests, enclosed valleys and panoramic ridgelines.

  • Duration: 7 days
  • Distance: approx. 90 km
  • Elevation: 500 to 900 m ascent per stage
  • Difficulty: moderate
  • Highlights: hot springs, chestnut groves, authentic villages

Mare a Mare North: the wildest crossing

The Mare a Mare North links Moriani (east coast) to Cargese (west coast) in 10 stages over roughly 130 km. It is the longest and most demanding of the three routes, crossing some of the interior's most sparsely populated areas.

The trail passes through the Vizzavona forest, the town of Corte (former capital of independent Corsica), the Tavignano gorges and the Aitone forest with its monumental Laricio pines. This crossing offers the most complete vision of inland Corsica, with varied landscapes and genuine encounters in the villages along the way.

  • Duration: 10 days
  • Distance: approx. 130 km
  • Elevation: 600 to 1,000 m ascent per stage
  • Difficulty: moderate to difficult
  • Highlights: Corte, Tavignano gorges, Aitone forest

The Mare e Monti trails: between coast and mountains

The Mare e Monti ("sea and mountain") follows a different concept: rather than crossing the island, it alternates between the coast and the mountains along the western seaboard, delivering spectacular panoramas of gulfs and peaks. Two variants exist.

Mare e Monti North: Calenzana to Cargese

The Mare e Monti North links Calenzana to Cargese in 10 stages over roughly 130 km. It is the most spectacular of the Corsican traverse trails after the GR20 and shares its starting point with that famous trail.

The route drops to the Gulf of Galeria, crosses the Scandola reserve (accessible only on foot or by boat), passes through the village of Girolata -- one of the few mainland French villages with no road access -- before skirting the UNESCO-listed Piana calanques. The trail constantly alternates between descents to isolated coves and climbs to viewpoints offering 360-degree panoramas of sea and mountains.

  • Duration: 10 days
  • Distance: approx. 130 km
  • Elevation: 500 to 900 m ascent per stage
  • Difficulty: moderate
  • Highlights: Girolata, Scandola Reserve, Piana calanques

Mare e Monti South: an accessible crossing

The Mare e Monti South links Porticcio to Burgo in 5 stages over roughly 70 km. It is the easiest of all the Corsican traverse trails, ideal for families and beginner hikers. Elevation gains remain modest and stages are short.

  • Duration: 5 days
  • Distance: approx. 70 km
  • Elevation: 300 to 600 m ascent per stage
  • Difficulty: easy
  • Highlights: secluded coves, coastal maquis, mountain villages

Comparison with the GR20

The Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti trails differ from the GR20 in several key ways:

  • Difficulty: significantly easier than the GR20. No scrambling or technical terrain.
  • Accommodation: comfortable trail lodges with half-board, instead of the GR20's spartan huts.
  • Pack weight: 8 to 10 kg is enough (no sleeping bag or stove needed in most lodges).
  • Atmosphere: more focused on cultural discovery -- village life, local cuisine and human encounters.
  • Flexibility: road access points let you adjust the route as you go.

Practical tips for traverse hikes

When to go

The best season for the Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti runs from May to October, with a preference for May-June and September-October. These periods offer pleasant temperatures (18-26 °C), a maquis in bloom in spring and stunning autumn colours. In July and August, the heat can be intense on coastal sections and lodges are in high demand.

Recommended gear

Gear requirements are lighter than for the GR20:

  • Hiking boots -- high-ankle or mid-cut with good grip.
  • 30- to 40-litre backpack: sufficient since lodges provide sheets and blankets.
  • Lightweight waterproof jacket and a thin fleece for evenings at altitude.
  • 1.5- to 2-litre water bottle: villages along the route let you refill.
  • IGN map of the area and an offline GPS app.

Resupply and meals

Trail lodges generally offer half-board (dinner and breakfast). Dinners are often a chance to sample authentic Corsican cuisine: cured meats, sheep's-milk cheese, peasant soup, wild boar stew. For lunch, pack a picnic prepared in the morning or pick up supplies from village shops along the way. Bring energy bars and dried fruit as backup.

Which route should you choose?

The right choice depends on your fitness, available time and personal preferences:

  • 5 days, easy level: Mare a Mare South or Mare e Monti South -- perfect for a first experience.
  • 7 days, moderate level: Mare a Mare Centre -- the quintessential balanced crossing.
  • 10 days, seeking spectacular scenery: Mare e Monti North -- the finest coastal landscapes in Corsica.
  • 10 days, seeking authenticity: Mare a Mare North -- the deepest immersion in inland Corsica.

Whichever crossing you choose, you will discover an intimate, wild Corsica far from crowded beaches. For shorter outings, browse our easy family hikes suggestions, or find all our routes in the complete hiking in Corsica guide.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between the Mare a Mare and the Mare e Monti?
The Mare a Mare ("sea to sea") crosses Corsica from east to west, linking the two coastlines through the mountainous interior. It comes in three variants: north, centre and south. The Mare e Monti ("sea and mountain") follows a route that alternates between the coast and the mountains, mainly along the west coast. Both types of trail are more accessible than the GR20 and are walked with overnight stays in trail lodges (gîtes d'étape).
How many days do you need for the Mare a Mare or Mare e Monti?
The Mare a Mare South takes 5 days, the Mare a Mare Centre 7 days and the Mare a Mare North 10 days. The Mare e Monti North takes 10 days and the Mare e Monti South 5 days. These durations are indicative and correspond to a comfortable walking pace. You can speed up or slow down depending on your fitness and preferences.
How difficult are the Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti trails?
These trails are rated easy to moderate. They are significantly more accessible than the GR20. The Mare a Mare South and Mare e Monti South are the easiest, suitable for beginners in reasonable physical condition. The Mare a Mare North and Mare e Monti North are longer with steeper daily ascents (600 to 900 m per stage), requiring some experience of mountain walking.
Do you need to book trail lodges on the traverse routes?
Yes, booking is strongly recommended, especially from June to September. The gîtes d'étape on the Mare a Mare and Mare e Monti trails are small establishments (15 to 30 beds) in remote villages. In peak season they often fill up. Book at least 2 weeks ahead. Lodges generally offer half-board (dinner + breakfast) for around 45 to 60 euros per person.

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